22 January 2014 – After having my way with Cartagena, I
hopped into an open-top, cherry red, vintage Mustang and high-tailed it on out
of there for the North coast. The wind
was blowing in my face, the emerald green Caribbean glistening to my left, and
Alberto, my chauffeur extraordinaire kept saying, “Its cool baby” as he took
another drag of his cigarette. Okay, I
confess: it was markedly less glamorous than that. By high tailed it, I mean that I paid $22 for
a bus ride to Santa Marta. It took five
hours – one of which was spent waiting to decide they were ready to leave.
Santa Marta is another important city on Colombia’s Caribbean
coast. Founded in 1525, it is the oldest
surviving city in South America, which is pretty impressive in it of
itself. Its history is full of all the
ransacking and pillaging of native populations that was so common during the
Spanish Conquest, but this isn’t a history lesson, so I’ll leave it at that.
For the most part, the Santa Marta of today is a bustling
city with mercados selling you anything you could desire – t-shirts, flip
flops, blender tops, mirrors, tv’s, remote controls…
Massive mesquite trees at La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino |
One of my highlights of Santa Marta was visiting La Quinta
de San Pedro Alejandrino. This a 17th
century hacienda that was owned by Joaquín de Mier, a Spaniard who was a devoted supporter of
Colombia’s independence. This continues
to remain a very important place for Colombia because Simón
Bolívar, who liberated Colombia and six other Latin American countries,
spent his final days and died here.
I particularly enjoyed the centuries old mesquite trees that
grew on the pristinely manicured grounds.
They towered tens of feet tall and easily dwarfed the mesquites we have
in our front yard in Las Vegas. In fact,
one such tree would easily fill the entire yard.
Just when I was about fed up with the honking taxis and
roaring motos racing by, I found a cozy little alleyway/walking street lined
with cute cafes with outdoor seating.
With the sun just setting and the heat of the day dying down I gladly
enjoyed a fresh mango, banana, and pineapple smoothie with rum in it as an
acoustic guitarist and bongo player sang songs in the street. That was followed up by quite possibly the greatest
arepa of my life. It was piled high with
flavorful carne, pico de gallo and avacodos.
The tomatoes were a bit under ripe, but somehow even this added to the
flavor. Que rico!
Where Simon Bolivar died |
Courtyard at the hacienda |
The kitchen...not a Kitchenaid in sight |
The streets of Santa Marta at dusk |
Sunset on the beach |
Tranquil alleyway |
My world renowned arepa |
Plaza de Novios, where all the locals hangout |
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